Costa Rica may be known as Central America’s LGBTQ-friendly hotspot for nature-based adventures, but Panama is a destination that wows on multiple levels, from its shimmering, modern capital city to its many natural wonders, fascinating indigenous cultures & lively LGBTQ scene.
I’ve visited Panama nearly a dozen times since my first trip in 2000, and every trip gives me new reasons to return to this multifaceted nation of nearly 4.5 million.
The logical base for exploring the region, Panama City, is a city of superlatives. This stunning metropolis is home to Central America’s tallest building (JW Marriott Panama), Latin America’s largest shopping mall (Albrook Mall), Central America’s first modern metro rail system (the Panama Metro,) and Latin America’s first work by star architect Frank Gehry (the Biomuseo). A visit to Panama City can easily generate a lot of visual stimulation.
These impressive claims to fame, of course, are all secondary when compared to the destination’s most legendary attraction: the Panama Canal, which continues to be one of the world’s most impressive feats of engineering. Panama City’s modern developments are just one side of the city, however. The city shows its historic roots in Panamá Viejo, the 16th-century ruins from its first colonial-era settlement, and the Casco Antiguo, a now-hip historic neighborhood dotted with wonderfully eclectic architectural styles.
Casco Antiguo Architecture (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Panama City is also attractive because of the easy access it provides to the wonders that await just outside. It’s easy to create a vacation that combines big-city sophistication (and lots of LGBTQ-friendly nightlife) with excursions to pristine natural parks and indigenous communities that practice centuries-old traditions. Panama’s ecological and cultural diversity are indeed remarkable (there are seven indigenous groups that call Panama home).
NEW WAYS TO ARRIVE IN PANAMA
Panama’s largest international gateway is Panama City’s Tocumen International Airport, which in 2022 welcomed a major expansion with the debut of Terminal 2. I flew on Copa Airlines, the Panama-based carrier that offers more nonstop flights from North America than any other airline, as well as highly attentive business class service.
I appreciated Terminal 2’s futuristic design and giant windows, but what I loved the most was the new Copa Club, a luxurious, 20,000-square-foot airline lounge with everything from a bar and food service to showers and a business center (the original Copa Club still operates in Terminal 1, in case that’s your point of arrival or departure).
In 2023, a new Metro rail line extension will connect Tocumen with Panama City, but most international travelers will likely still opt for a taxi, Uber, or a transfer arranged by a hotel or tour operator. The fact that Panama’s official currency is the U.S. dollar (although they sometimes call it a Balboa) means there’s no need to worry about conversion rates as you compare transportation options. The ride into Panama City takes 20 to 40 minutes, depending on traffic, and the approach into the city is certainly memorable; the skyscrapers that rise above both sides of the highway might make you think you’ve arrived in Miami, except there are more high-rises in Panama City.
TOP TOURISM SITES IN PANAMA CITY
While Panama’s modern sheen certainly dominates the skyline, if you want to learn about the area’s history, you need to visit the historic sites, too. Uber is the fastest and easiest way to get around Panama City, especially since almost no buildings have numbered addresses. In general, you can enter the name of the attraction, restaurant, bar, or hotel on the app, and the location will pop up (this even works for LGBTQ nightclubs and bars). Alternately, you can sign up for a guided tour with companies like Kensington Tours (a company that operates in more than 100 countries and has extensive local connections in Panama) to make the most of your time in the city.
To understand Panama City chronologically, the first stop should be Panama Viejo (Old Panama), the ruins of the first Spanish settlement that date to 1519 and were destroyed in 1671 by the Welsh privateer Henry Morgan. Residents fled to a nearby peninsula to found the next settlement, which today is known as the Casco Antiguo (or Casco Viejo).
Casco Antiguo Landmark (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
In recent years, this now-trendy neighborhood has become a hub for stylish shops, small luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants, and design-conscious nightlife, but it’s also home to several noteworthy historic attractions, including the Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), which has towers dressed in mother-of-pearl, and the Teatro Nacional (National Theater), an Italian neoclassical beauty that hosts theatrical and musical performances. The Iglesia de San José (San José Church) is another must-see site; it displays a golden altar that was rescued from
Panamá Viejo.
Also in the Casco Antiguo is the Museo del Canal Interoceánico de Panamá (the Panama Canal Museum), which provides a worthwhile overview of the legendary canal, and Las Bóvedas, a former fortress that is now perfect for strolling and photographs. Along the waterfront promenade you’ll also find a variety of indigenous street vendors selling beautiful items, including handmade baskets made by the Emberá and Wounaan people, and colorful, embroided cloth molas created by the indigenous Guna people. Several boutiques in the Casco Antiguo also stock handmade indigenous items as well as contemporary art, home
décor, and clothing.
If you’re a true shopaholic, you may want to tap into the local mall scene. Panama City is home to Latin America’s biggest shopping complex, Albrook Mall, which even has its own hotel (the Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall Hotel & Convention Center). For a greater concentration of upscale retailers, however, head to MultiPlaza Panama, where retailers include Longchamp Paris, BCBGMazAzria, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera and Cartier, to name a few.
BioMuseo (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Architecture and nature lovers should be sure to head to the BioMuseo, a natural history museum, which is the first work in Latin America by the architect Frank Gehry. Its jagged, multicolored façade offers lots of great photo opportunities. The museum sits near the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, and for our latest excursion to that famed attraction, we joined Kensington Tours as part of a bespoke tour itinerary that included two separate one-day excursions, each of which offered its own unforgettable experiences.
SIDE TRIPS AND TOURS IN PANAMA
“No offense, but the clothes you’re wearing look very uncomfortable,” a young man named Kevin said, smiling as he glanced at the T-shirts and shorts that my husband Angel and I were wearing.
Embera Community (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Panama is a destination that wows on multiple levels, from its shimmering, modern capital city to its many natural wonders, fascinating indigenous cultures and lively LGBTQ scene
I certainly took no offense. After all, we were seated in a thatched-roof hut in the oppressive heat, wearing our city summer clothes. Kevin, a member of the Emberá community, was wearing nothing more than a beautiful loincloth accented with tiny beads, as well as several beaded necklaces and a number of impressive tattoos. He was certainly dressed more practically than we were.
Our visit to Puru Biakiru, an Emberá settlement that sits on the banks of the Chagres River, was one of the most memorable experiences on our Panama trip. Kensington tours provided transportation and a knowledgeable bilingual guide, and the ride to get there, aboard a narrow wooden boat called a piragua was simply lovely. We enjoyed speaking with members of the community, admiring their craftwork (they’re known for beautifully designed baskets and beaded crafts) and sampling some of their traditional cuisine, including mouthwatering fresh fish and fried plantains.
Kensington does a great job of arranging personalized experiences with indigenous cultures. Since my husband and I speak Spanish, we were able to chat one-on-one with multiple community members, but even if you don’t, Kensington’s bilingual guides can facilitate conversations.
In addition to the Embera village visit, our two-day itinerary with Kensington Tours included scenic kayaking on the Chagres River, which is part of the Panama Canal system, and hiking in Soberania National Park, a dense, 55,000-acre park known for its lush vegetation and diverse wildlife.
The Panama Canal, a 51-mile waterway that links the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, is a centerpiece of most first-time visitors’ itineraries, and while we’d seen it before, it never fails to impress. It’s always fun to watch giant ships inch through the locks at the Miraflores Visitor Center, and our tour guide provided additional insight beyond what was provided by the facility’s exhibits.
Cruise Ship in The Panama Canal (Photo by Artemu Kopylovk)
We wrapped up our Kensington Tours experience in a decidedly delicious way, with a culinary tour of Panama City. We savored our stops for tastings at the hip microbrewer La Rana Dorada, the cool rum bar Pedro Mandinga, the ceviche restaurant El Bote PTY and gourmet chocolate ship Oro Moreno. By the time we finished our traditional Panamanian dinner at the popular restaurant El Trapiche (which was also included in the tour), our diets were shot but our stomachs were happy.
Speaking of culinary experiences, Panama City is a rewarding destination for foodies. Traditional dishes include sancocho (stew usually made with chicken), ropa vieja (shredded beef), patacones (fried plantains) and carimañolas (yucca cakes).
In the trendy Casco Antiguo district, one of the hottest restaurants is Fonda Lo Que Hay, which serves modern takes on classic Panamanian dishes, and Lazotea, a hip rooftop restaurant with a cool menu and nice view. I also loved my meal at La Tapa del Coco, a casual eatery run by local celebrity Chef Isaac Villaverde, a champion of Afro-Panamanian cuisine. The codfish balls and jerk chicken were especially tasty.
GREAT HOTELS IN PANAMA CITY
Panama’s capital is home to an exceptional array of internationally branded hotels, including some of the world’s top luxury chains. I have a number of favorite hotels in Panama City, but on this visit I found a new one to add to my list: Hotel La CompañÃa, which debuted this year in the CascoAntiguo district.
La CompañÃa, which is the first Central American member of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, is graced with countless historical touches and modern luxuries. Its 88 guest rooms are spread among three wings, including the French wing, which is set in a former Jesuit university that dates to 1739, and the American wing, which features visual cues from the early 20th century, to reflect the styles of the former department store in which it’s set.
We stayed in the gorgeous Spanish wing, in a one-bedroom suite with hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, a comfortable living area, and two sets of double doors that lead to a large private terrace overlooking the verdant courtyard. We also enjoyed the hotel’s public spaces, including the pristine rooftop pool, and well equipped gym and spa. For dining and rinking, we found our bliss at 1739, an elegant restaurant with a massive wine cellar, where we indulged in lobster bisque, lechon, fresh snapper and short ribs. We also enjoyed our time at Exilio, a bar with an expert cocktail menu, and El Santuario, which features a diverse menu that ranges from Panamanian breakfasts to dim sum and Indian brunches.
The F&F Tower (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
With such a wide array of hotel brands present in Panama City, it’s not difficult to match your stay to your mood and style. We spent two fabulous nights at the W Panama City, one of the city’s most mod accommodation options. The hotel exudes the W brand’s playfully stylish ambiance, with a cool lobby bar centered around a repurposed container and a buzzy outdoor rooftop pool. The large spa provided me with a relaxing one-hour massage treatment, and the relaxation continued in our appropriately named Spectacular Guest room, where floor-to-ceiling windows and cheery décor set the tone for a decidedly uplifting stay.
One evening, we Ubered over to another noteworthy property: the JW Marriott Panama, which is dramatically set in Central America’s tallest skyscraper. Its contemporary design sets the stage for a decidedly upscale hotel experience, and we relished a lovely evening at Masi, one of the hotel’s beautiful restaurants, which has a dining garden that provides a romantic setting for drinks or a meal.
LGBTQ NIGHTLIFE IN PANAMA CITY
As one of Central America’s largest cities, Panama City is a hub for LGBTQ nightlife, although in recent years many LGBTQ locals find themselves increasingly comfortable in “mainstream” venues as well, since many of them are trendy, stylish, and decidedly friendly.
The Casco Antiguo is the hippest hub for mainstream nightlife, especially at rooftop bars like CasaCasco and Tántalo, both of which have live DJs on the weekend but attract night owls throughout the week.
LGBTQ-specific nightlife in Panama City is centered mostly around dance clubs that attract young crowds for late-night fun on the weekends. The largest, XS, is billed as the biggest LGBTQ disco in Central America. With an ambiance that’s something like a warehouse painted black, its cavernous interior packs in the revelers on weekends. Cover is generally about $18 and includes open bar, but the low quality of the free drinks may convince you to splurge on other beverages and perhaps opt for access to the VIP section.
Another top LGBTQ pick is BLG, which is smaller but quite attractive. Depending on the night and the event, you may pay about $20 to get in, with open bar included (or $25 for open bar and VIP seating). There’s not as much dance space at BLG, but the music is good and we’ve enjoyed some especially good drag shows there. If you’re hungry, you can head to the open-air back area, where patrons puff from hookahs as they scan the menu of empanadas, hot dogs, cheese fries with bacon, and salchipapas (French fries with sliced hot dogs).
BLG Drag Show (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Larger than BLG but smaller than XS is Envy, a popular LGBTQ dance club that’s centrally located in the El Cangrejo neighborhood. On Fridays, they charge a $15 cover, with open bar from 9 P.M. until 2 A.M. The big stage offers plenty of space for DJs, drag queens, and go-go boys.
If you’re in the mood for a gay dive bar, you can’t go wrong at La Cueva, a longstanding venue (formerly known as La Madrid) near the trendier mainstream bars in the Casco Antiguo. Downscale, small, and lively, La Cueva attracts a mostly male clientele, but the men are more varied in age and class than in the other LGBTQ nightspots. Music blasts in the tiny dance area and the smoke machine makes the drag show and strippers seem almost like hallucinations. The $5 weekend cover provides nothing but entry, but drinks are cheap.
LGBTQ RIGHTS AND PRIDE IN PANAMA
Panama has made progress in improving the legal status of its LGBTQ citizens, but discrimination remains. Same-sex sexual activity is legal in Panama, but unlike neighboring Colombia and Costa Rica, same-sex marriage is still not recognized.
“We’re still fighting for same-sex marriage here in Panama,” said Xamir, a Panama City native and male model. “There’s still a certain amount of homophobia and machismo, even within our own community. What has improved is inclusion and participation in pride festivals, marches, and parades. In addition, globally recognized transnational companies like Levi’s and Dell have been able to introduce material in support of the community, and this has made it possible for Panamanian companies to join those campaigns.”
Lucas Castillo, a Panama City-based designer also known as AaNesty, agrees about the progress, and the need for more. “Thanks to the union of organizations that fight for our rights, some support groups, and the growth of Panama pride, many businesses have changed their personnel policies and accept us as we are,” he said. “But we are still in the fight.”
Indeed, even as Panama’s government lags behind nearby countries, the local LGBTQ community is enjoying ever-greater visibility. The first pride parade, which took place in 2005, attracted only 100 participants (and none of my Panamanian friends felt comfortable attending a public queer gathering). Today, the annual event has grown into a vibrant parade and street festival that takes place in late June. In addition, multiple LGBTQ organizations serve the needs of the community, including the Asociación de Hombres y Mujeres Nuevos de Panamá (Association of New Men and Women of Panama), Convive Panamá and Fundación Iguales.
Giraldo (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
As the struggle for LGBTQ rights progresses, Panama has all the ingredients to become one of the next great LGBTQ vacation destinations.
TOURS
Kensington Tours, kensingtontours.com
HOTELS
Hilton Panama, Avenida Balboa y Calle Aquilino de la Guardia. Tel: +507-280-8000. hilton.com
JW Marriott Panama, Calle Punta Colon, Punta Pacifica. Tel: +507-215-8800. marriott.com
Hotel La CompañÃa, the Unbound Collection by Hyatt, Avenida A y Calle 8, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-302-8888. hyatt.com
Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo Panama, Calle Primera Oeste, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-302-4300. all.accor.com
Waldorf Astoria Panama, Calle 47, Panama City. Tel: +507-294-8000. hilton.com
W Panama, Calle 50 and Aquilino de la Guardia. Tel: +507 302-7555. marriott.com
Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall Hotel & Convention Center, Albrook Mall Corregimiento de Ancon, Panama City. Tel: +507- 307-0300. wyndhamhotels.com
NIGHTLIFE
CasaCasco, Calle 10 y #8-15, Casco Antigo. Tel: +507-6288-9024. casacasco.com
Tántalo, Calle 8 Este con Avenida B, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-262-4030. tantalohotel.com
XS Club, Avenida Juan Pablo Segundo conTumba Muerto. Tel: +507-6230-0378. instagram.com/xsclubpty
BLG, Avenida Simón Bolivar, Panama City. Tel: +507-393-6298. facebook.com/sky.panama.5
Envy Club, Calle Aquilino de la Guardia, Panama City. Tel: +507-386-1742. facebook.com/envyclubpanama
La Cueva, Calle 12 Oeste, Panama City. Tel: +507-6860-2841. facebook.com/lacuevabar12
La Rana Dorada, Calle 9 Este con Calle Boquete. Tel: +507-390-1088. laranadorada.com
Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel. +507-391-5596. pedromandinga.com/en/
RESTAURANTS
El Trapiche, Via Argentina. Tel: +507-269-4353. eltrapicherestaurante.com
Fonda Lo Que Hay, Calle Jose de Obaldia, Casto Antiguo. fondaloquehay.com
La Tapa del Coco, Calle 68 Este, Panama City. Tel: +507-203-0454. latapadelcocopanama.com
Mercado del Marisco, Cinta Costera 2. Tel: +507-6981-8773. No website.
Tinajas, Calle 51 Este, Panama City. Tel: +507-6030-8282 tinajaspanama.com
SHOPPING
Albrook Mall, Marginal, Avenida Roosevelt, Panama City. Tel: 507-303-6255. albrookmall.com
MultiPlaza Panama, Via Israel, Panama City. Tel: +507-302-5380. multiplaza.com/panama
Karavan Gallery, Calle Tercera, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-228-7177. karavangallery.com
Etnik, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6494-5236. instagram.com/etnikpanama
Casa Latina, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6647-4910. facebook.com/casalatina.pty/
Colina Art Gallery, Avenida B, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6203-4761. artgallerycolina.com
Undercover, Avenida A entre Calle 3era y 4ta. Tel: +507-209-6606. iamundercover.com
LGBTQ ORGANIZATIONS
Asociación de Hombres y Mujeres Nuevos de Panamá (Association of New Men and Women of Panama), Centro Comercial de la Gran Estación, Oficina 108-109, San Miguelito. Tel: +502-382-6134. ahmnp.org
Convive Panamá, address unlisted. Tel: +507-6953-1307. convivepanama.org
Fundación Iguales, Dream Plaza, Costa del Este, Ciudad de Panamá, Tel: +507 830-6436. fundacioniguales.org
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The post Discovering the Best of Panama City Panama, LGBTQ HotSpot appeared first on Passport Magazine.
Discovering the Best of Panama City Panama, LGBTQ HotSpot
Costa Rica may be known as Central America’s LGBTQ-friendly hotspot for nature-based adventures, but Panama is a destination that wows on multiple levels, from its shimmering, modern capital city to its many natural wonders, fascinating indigenous cultures & lively LGBTQ scene.
I’ve visited Panama nearly a dozen times since my first trip in 2000, and every trip gives me new reasons to return to this multifaceted nation of nearly 4.5 million.
The logical base for exploring the region, Panama City, is a city of superlatives. This stunning metropolis is home to Central America’s tallest building (JW Marriott Panama), Latin America’s largest shopping mall (Albrook Mall), Central America’s first modern metro rail system (the Panama Metro,) and Latin America’s first work by star architect Frank Gehry (the Biomuseo). A visit to Panama City can easily generate a lot of visual stimulation.
These impressive claims to fame, of course, are all secondary when compared to the destination’s most legendary attraction: the Panama Canal, which continues to be one of the world’s most impressive feats of engineering. Panama City’s modern developments are just one side of the city, however. The city shows its historic roots in Panamá Viejo, the 16th-century ruins from its first colonial-era settlement, and the Casco Antiguo, a now-hip historic neighborhood dotted with wonderfully eclectic architectural styles.
Casco Antiguo Architecture (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Panama City is also attractive because of the easy access it provides to the wonders that await just outside. It’s easy to create a vacation that combines big-city sophistication (and lots of LGBTQ-friendly nightlife) with excursions to pristine natural parks and indigenous communities that practice centuries-old traditions. Panama’s ecological and cultural diversity are indeed remarkable (there are seven indigenous groups that call Panama home).
NEW WAYS TO ARRIVE IN PANAMA
Panama’s largest international gateway is Panama City’s Tocumen International Airport, which in 2022 welcomed a major expansion with the debut of Terminal 2. I flew on Copa Airlines, the Panama-based carrier that offers more nonstop flights from North America than any other airline, as well as highly attentive business class service.
I appreciated Terminal 2’s futuristic design and giant windows, but what I loved the most was the new Copa Club, a luxurious, 20,000-square-foot airline lounge with everything from a bar and food service to showers and a business center (the original Copa Club still operates in Terminal 1, in case that’s your point of arrival or departure).
In 2023, a new Metro rail line extension will connect Tocumen with Panama City, but most international travelers will likely still opt for a taxi, Uber, or a transfer arranged by a hotel or tour operator. The fact that Panama’s official currency is the U.S. dollar (although they sometimes call it a Balboa) means there’s no need to worry about conversion rates as you compare transportation options. The ride into Panama City takes 20 to 40 minutes, depending on traffic, and the approach into the city is certainly memorable; the skyscrapers that rise above both sides of the highway might make you think you’ve arrived in Miami, except there are more high-rises in Panama City.
TOP TOURISM SITES IN PANAMA CITY
While Panama’s modern sheen certainly dominates the skyline, if you want to learn about the area’s history, you need to visit the historic sites, too. Uber is the fastest and easiest way to get around Panama City, especially since almost no buildings have numbered addresses. In general, you can enter the name of the attraction, restaurant, bar, or hotel on the app, and the location will pop up (this even works for LGBTQ nightclubs and bars). Alternately, you can sign up for a guided tour with companies like Kensington Tours (a company that operates in more than 100 countries and has extensive local connections in Panama) to make the most of your time in the city.
To understand Panama City chronologically, the first stop should be Panama Viejo (Old Panama), the ruins of the first Spanish settlement that date to 1519 and were destroyed in 1671 by the Welsh privateer Henry Morgan. Residents fled to a nearby peninsula to found the next settlement, which today is known as the Casco Antiguo (or Casco Viejo).
Casco Antiguo Landmark (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
In recent years, this now-trendy neighborhood has become a hub for stylish shops, small luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants, and design-conscious nightlife, but it’s also home to several noteworthy historic attractions, including the Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), which has towers dressed in mother-of-pearl, and the Teatro Nacional (National Theater), an Italian neoclassical beauty that hosts theatrical and musical performances. The Iglesia de San José (San José Church) is another must-see site; it displays a golden altar that was rescued from
Panamá Viejo.
Also in the Casco Antiguo is the Museo del Canal Interoceánico de Panamá (the Panama Canal Museum), which provides a worthwhile overview of the legendary canal, and Las Bóvedas, a former fortress that is now perfect for strolling and photographs. Along the waterfront promenade you’ll also find a variety of indigenous street vendors selling beautiful items, including handmade baskets made by the Emberá and Wounaan people, and colorful, embroided cloth molas created by the indigenous Guna people. Several boutiques in the Casco Antiguo also stock handmade indigenous items as well as contemporary art, home
décor, and clothing.
If you’re a true shopaholic, you may want to tap into the local mall scene. Panama City is home to Latin America’s biggest shopping complex, Albrook Mall, which even has its own hotel (the Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall Hotel & Convention Center). For a greater concentration of upscale retailers, however, head to MultiPlaza Panama, where retailers include Longchamp Paris, BCBGMazAzria, Calvin Klein, Carolina Herrera and Cartier, to name a few.
BioMuseo (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Architecture and nature lovers should be sure to head to the BioMuseo, a natural history museum, which is the first work in Latin America by the architect Frank Gehry. Its jagged, multicolored façade offers lots of great photo opportunities. The museum sits near the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal, and for our latest excursion to that famed attraction, we joined Kensington Tours as part of a bespoke tour itinerary that included two separate one-day excursions, each of which offered its own unforgettable experiences.
SIDE TRIPS AND TOURS IN PANAMA
“No offense, but the clothes you’re wearing look very uncomfortable,” a young man named Kevin said, smiling as he glanced at the T-shirts and shorts that my husband Angel and I were wearing.
Embera Community (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Panama is a destination that wows on multiple levels, from its shimmering, modern capital city to its many natural wonders, fascinating indigenous cultures and lively LGBTQ scene
I certainly took no offense. After all, we were seated in a thatched-roof hut in the oppressive heat, wearing our city summer clothes. Kevin, a member of the Emberá community, was wearing nothing more than a beautiful loincloth accented with tiny beads, as well as several beaded necklaces and a number of impressive tattoos. He was certainly dressed more practically than we were.
Our visit to Puru Biakiru, an Emberá settlement that sits on the banks of the Chagres River, was one of the most memorable experiences on our Panama trip. Kensington tours provided transportation and a knowledgeable bilingual guide, and the ride to get there, aboard a narrow wooden boat called a piragua was simply lovely. We enjoyed speaking with members of the community, admiring their craftwork (they’re known for beautifully designed baskets and beaded crafts) and sampling some of their traditional cuisine, including mouthwatering fresh fish and fried plantains.
Kensington does a great job of arranging personalized experiences with indigenous cultures. Since my husband and I speak Spanish, we were able to chat one-on-one with multiple community members, but even if you don’t, Kensington’s bilingual guides can facilitate conversations.
In addition to the Embera village visit, our two-day itinerary with Kensington Tours included scenic kayaking on the Chagres River, which is part of the Panama Canal system, and hiking in Soberania National Park, a dense, 55,000-acre park known for its lush vegetation and diverse wildlife.
The Panama Canal, a 51-mile waterway that links the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, is a centerpiece of most first-time visitors’ itineraries, and while we’d seen it before, it never fails to impress. It’s always fun to watch giant ships inch through the locks at the Miraflores Visitor Center, and our tour guide provided additional insight beyond what was provided by the facility’s exhibits.
Cruise Ship in The Panama Canal (Photo by Artemu Kopylovk)
We wrapped up our Kensington Tours experience in a decidedly delicious way, with a culinary tour of Panama City. We savored our stops for tastings at the hip microbrewer La Rana Dorada, the cool rum bar Pedro Mandinga, the ceviche restaurant El Bote PTY and gourmet chocolate ship Oro Moreno. By the time we finished our traditional Panamanian dinner at the popular restaurant El Trapiche (which was also included in the tour), our diets were shot but our stomachs were happy.
Speaking of culinary experiences, Panama City is a rewarding destination for foodies. Traditional dishes include sancocho (stew usually made with chicken), ropa vieja (shredded beef), patacones (fried plantains) and carimañolas (yucca cakes).
In the trendy Casco Antiguo district, one of the hottest restaurants is Fonda Lo Que Hay, which serves modern takes on classic Panamanian dishes, and Lazotea, a hip rooftop restaurant with a cool menu and nice view. I also loved my meal at La Tapa del Coco, a casual eatery run by local celebrity Chef Isaac Villaverde, a champion of Afro-Panamanian cuisine. The codfish balls and jerk chicken were especially tasty.
GREAT HOTELS IN PANAMA CITY
Panama’s capital is home to an exceptional array of internationally branded hotels, including some of the world’s top luxury chains. I have a number of favorite hotels in Panama City, but on this visit I found a new one to add to my list: Hotel La CompañÃa, which debuted this year in the CascoAntiguo district.
La CompañÃa, which is the first Central American member of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, is graced with countless historical touches and modern luxuries. Its 88 guest rooms are spread among three wings, including the French wing, which is set in a former Jesuit university that dates to 1739, and the American wing, which features visual cues from the early 20th century, to reflect the styles of the former department store in which it’s set.
We stayed in the gorgeous Spanish wing, in a one-bedroom suite with hardwood floors, exposed brick walls, a comfortable living area, and two sets of double doors that lead to a large private terrace overlooking the verdant courtyard. We also enjoyed the hotel’s public spaces, including the pristine rooftop pool, and well equipped gym and spa. For dining and rinking, we found our bliss at 1739, an elegant restaurant with a massive wine cellar, where we indulged in lobster bisque, lechon, fresh snapper and short ribs. We also enjoyed our time at Exilio, a bar with an expert cocktail menu, and El Santuario, which features a diverse menu that ranges from Panamanian breakfasts to dim sum and Indian brunches.
The F&F Tower (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
With such a wide array of hotel brands present in Panama City, it’s not difficult to match your stay to your mood and style. We spent two fabulous nights at the W Panama City, one of the city’s most mod accommodation options. The hotel exudes the W brand’s playfully stylish ambiance, with a cool lobby bar centered around a repurposed container and a buzzy outdoor rooftop pool. The large spa provided me with a relaxing one-hour massage treatment, and the relaxation continued in our appropriately named Spectacular Guest room, where floor-to-ceiling windows and cheery décor set the tone for a decidedly uplifting stay.
One evening, we Ubered over to another noteworthy property: the JW Marriott Panama, which is dramatically set in Central America’s tallest skyscraper. Its contemporary design sets the stage for a decidedly upscale hotel experience, and we relished a lovely evening at Masi, one of the hotel’s beautiful restaurants, which has a dining garden that provides a romantic setting for drinks or a meal.
LGBTQ NIGHTLIFE IN PANAMA CITY
As one of Central America’s largest cities, Panama City is a hub for LGBTQ nightlife, although in recent years many LGBTQ locals find themselves increasingly comfortable in “mainstream” venues as well, since many of them are trendy, stylish, and decidedly friendly.
The Casco Antiguo is the hippest hub for mainstream nightlife, especially at rooftop bars like CasaCasco and Tántalo, both of which have live DJs on the weekend but attract night owls throughout the week.
LGBTQ-specific nightlife in Panama City is centered mostly around dance clubs that attract young crowds for late-night fun on the weekends. The largest, XS, is billed as the biggest LGBTQ disco in Central America. With an ambiance that’s something like a warehouse painted black, its cavernous interior packs in the revelers on weekends. Cover is generally about $18 and includes open bar, but the low quality of the free drinks may convince you to splurge on other beverages and perhaps opt for access to the VIP section.
Another top LGBTQ pick is BLG, which is smaller but quite attractive. Depending on the night and the event, you may pay about $20 to get in, with open bar included (or $25 for open bar and VIP seating). There’s not as much dance space at BLG, but the music is good and we’ve enjoyed some especially good drag shows there. If you’re hungry, you can head to the open-air back area, where patrons puff from hookahs as they scan the menu of empanadas, hot dogs, cheese fries with bacon, and salchipapas (French fries with sliced hot dogs).
BLG Drag Show (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
Larger than BLG but smaller than XS is Envy, a popular LGBTQ dance club that’s centrally located in the El Cangrejo neighborhood. On Fridays, they charge a $15 cover, with open bar from 9 P.M. until 2 A.M. The big stage offers plenty of space for DJs, drag queens, and go-go boys.
If you’re in the mood for a gay dive bar, you can’t go wrong at La Cueva, a longstanding venue (formerly known as La Madrid) near the trendier mainstream bars in the Casco Antiguo. Downscale, small, and lively, La Cueva attracts a mostly male clientele, but the men are more varied in age and class than in the other LGBTQ nightspots. Music blasts in the tiny dance area and the smoke machine makes the drag show and strippers seem almost like hallucinations. The $5 weekend cover provides nothing but entry, but drinks are cheap.
LGBTQ RIGHTS AND PRIDE IN PANAMA
Panama has made progress in improving the legal status of its LGBTQ citizens, but discrimination remains. Same-sex sexual activity is legal in Panama, but unlike neighboring Colombia and Costa Rica, same-sex marriage is still not recognized.
“We’re still fighting for same-sex marriage here in Panama,” said Xamir, a Panama City native and male model. “There’s still a certain amount of homophobia and machismo, even within our own community. What has improved is inclusion and participation in pride festivals, marches, and parades. In addition, globally recognized transnational companies like Levi’s and Dell have been able to introduce material in support of the community, and this has made it possible for Panamanian companies to join those campaigns.”
Lucas Castillo, a Panama City-based designer also known as AaNesty, agrees about the progress, and the need for more. “Thanks to the union of organizations that fight for our rights, some support groups, and the growth of Panama pride, many businesses have changed their personnel policies and accept us as we are,” he said. “But we are still in the fight.”
Indeed, even as Panama’s government lags behind nearby countries, the local LGBTQ community is enjoying ever-greater visibility. The first pride parade, which took place in 2005, attracted only 100 participants (and none of my Panamanian friends felt comfortable attending a public queer gathering). Today, the annual event has grown into a vibrant parade and street festival that takes place in late June. In addition, multiple LGBTQ organizations serve the needs of the community, including the Asociación de Hombres y Mujeres Nuevos de Panamá (Association of New Men and Women of Panama), Convive Panamá and Fundación Iguales.
Giraldo (Photo by Mark Chesnut)
As the struggle for LGBTQ rights progresses, Panama has all the ingredients to become one of the next great LGBTQ vacation destinations.
TOURS
Kensington Tours, kensingtontours.com
HOTELS
Hilton Panama, Avenida Balboa y Calle Aquilino de la Guardia. Tel: +507-280-8000. hilton.com
JW Marriott Panama, Calle Punta Colon, Punta Pacifica. Tel: +507-215-8800. marriott.com
Hotel La CompañÃa, the Unbound Collection by Hyatt, Avenida A y Calle 8, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-302-8888. hyatt.com
Sofitel Legend Casco Viejo Panama, Calle Primera Oeste, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-302-4300. all.accor.com
Waldorf Astoria Panama, Calle 47, Panama City. Tel: +507-294-8000. hilton.com
W Panama, Calle 50 and Aquilino de la Guardia. Tel: +507 302-7555. marriott.com
Wyndham Panama Albrook Mall Hotel & Convention Center, Albrook Mall Corregimiento de Ancon, Panama City. Tel: +507- 307-0300. wyndhamhotels.com
NIGHTLIFE
CasaCasco, Calle 10 y #8-15, Casco Antigo. Tel: +507-6288-9024. casacasco.com
Tántalo, Calle 8 Este con Avenida B, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-262-4030. tantalohotel.com
XS Club, Avenida Juan Pablo Segundo conTumba Muerto. Tel: +507-6230-0378. instagram.com/xsclubpty
BLG, Avenida Simón Bolivar, Panama City. Tel: +507-393-6298. facebook.com/sky.panama.5
Envy Club, Calle Aquilino de la Guardia, Panama City. Tel: +507-386-1742. facebook.com/envyclubpanama
La Cueva, Calle 12 Oeste, Panama City. Tel: +507-6860-2841. facebook.com/lacuevabar12
La Rana Dorada, Calle 9 Este con Calle Boquete. Tel: +507-390-1088. laranadorada.com
Pedro Mandinga Rum Bar, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel. +507-391-5596. pedromandinga.com/en/
RESTAURANTS
El Trapiche, Via Argentina. Tel: +507-269-4353. eltrapicherestaurante.com
Fonda Lo Que Hay, Calle Jose de Obaldia, Casto Antiguo. fondaloquehay.com
La Tapa del Coco, Calle 68 Este, Panama City. Tel: +507-203-0454. latapadelcocopanama.com
Mercado del Marisco, Cinta Costera 2. Tel: +507-6981-8773. No website.
Tinajas, Calle 51 Este, Panama City. Tel: +507-6030-8282 tinajaspanama.com
SHOPPING
Albrook Mall, Marginal, Avenida Roosevelt, Panama City. Tel: 507-303-6255. albrookmall.com
MultiPlaza Panama, Via Israel, Panama City. Tel: +507-302-5380. multiplaza.com/panama
Karavan Gallery, Calle Tercera, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-228-7177. karavangallery.com
Etnik, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6494-5236. instagram.com/etnikpanama
Casa Latina, Avenida A, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6647-4910. facebook.com/casalatina.pty/
Colina Art Gallery, Avenida B, Casco Antiguo. Tel: +507-6203-4761. artgallerycolina.com
Undercover, Avenida A entre Calle 3era y 4ta. Tel: +507-209-6606. iamundercover.com
LGBTQ ORGANIZATIONS
Asociación de Hombres y Mujeres Nuevos de Panamá (Association of New Men and Women of Panama), Centro Comercial de la Gran Estación, Oficina 108-109, San Miguelito. Tel: +502-382-6134. ahmnp.org
Convive Panamá, address unlisted. Tel: +507-6953-1307. convivepanama.org
Fundación Iguales, Dream Plaza, Costa del Este, Ciudad de Panamá, Tel: +507 830-6436. fundacioniguales.org
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